Faxanadu Big Muff Pedal

Faxanadu Guitar Pedal


Faxanadu NES Game

Mantras and Wingboots await.


I actually thought it was a first party Nintendo game way back in the day, there were some similarities to Zelda II the Adventure of Link and you had to look really hard to find “Hudson Soft” anywhere on the box or instruction manual (it does say it on the opening screen).

I remember weird quippy elves, cool weapon/armor upgrades and some wild bosses:

Faxanadu NES

I used a Madbeanpedals.com Big Muff (Mudbunny) pcb  kit for the guts and a 1590dd pedal enclosure.  Covering is high quality uv-resistant arcade style vinyl.

It’s the first in a series, when I’m finished my pedal board is gonna look like a display case in the electronics section of Bradlees (or Caldors, or Ames, or Sears… pick your poison) circa 1988.

  Categories : Arcade/Gaming, Guitars

Making Your Own Guitar Cables & Other News


Unlike HDMI or speaker cables ( in modest size runs) there’s actually an audible difference between different types of guitar cables.  I kept reading about these dudes making their own cables and it basically boils down to this: Mogami instrument cable is easily sourced, reasonably priced and sounds pretty damn good compared to other high-end cables. I bought some from this Redco joint they kept talking about.

Couple this with the fact that Orange County Speaker sells GLS plugs at good prices and free shipping and now I’m making up a ton of nice pedal cables.

GLS Pancake Plug

GLS Pancake Plug

The top lug is hot, bottom ground and the Mogami cable simply has a shielding wire (ground) and a black conductive PVC coated wire underneath ( the hot ). One thing to make sure of is to remove some of that black shielding from the top of the hot wire, leaving only the clear insulation near the solder tip like in this picture below.

DIY Guitar Cables

I used W2319 miniature cable for the small pedal cables. I will use W2524 or the Canare (it comes in colors too) next time when I make the regular long guitar cables. There are also non-solder type plugs out there too that I haven’t tried. I checked eBay and noticed many different vendors selling pre-made Canare/Mogami/Neutrik cables and the savings equals about ten dollars per cable doing it yourself. For example, a 20 foot Mogami cable with Neutrik jacks was about thirty dollars, where I could make one for twenty. I especially like being able to create custom size cables and the mini wire is great for pedal board chains.

In other guitar-ing news I tried something and I think it worked: T Shirt iron on transfers on a guitar neck.

Nuka Pinup

Nuka Cola – “Play Refreshed”

Here we have a pre-blast hottie sampling some Nuka Cola out of a real full size Nuka Cola machine. I will lightly spray over it with Tru Oil spray, then once that’s built up a few coats I’ll tru oil with a piece of T-shirt as normal. I do the same for waterslide decals on the headstock, tru oil spray is much more gentle than wiping it on.

Are pinup girls for dirty old men? I don’t think so. I like them and I’m not a dirty old man yet. I’m reminded of Kurt Vonnegut who said he never really experienced the culture or history of any place he ever visited until he was seventy-five. Up until then he was always too busy surveying the women he saw. I suppose I could have used a fully clothed model instead of this poor woman in lingerie… I mean who goes out at 11 o’clock at night with their skivvies on to backhanded catch a refreshing Nuka Break? Someone I’d like to meet I’d wager. I won’t hold it against her… plus I will never forget where the twelfth fret is with a big pair of jugs on them.

Oh yeah, as I’m making a clone of my Big Muff Pi I bought back in 1993 or so, I came across some “tropical fish” capacitors:

tropical fish capacitor

Check out my Chiclets

I love these retro out of print things, I will try and use them wherever I can in pedal builds. I ‘m also considering buying one or two of every type and housing them in a small aquarium. Who has time to clean up a bunch of algae and fish shit anyways? I clean up enough turd with Bunger Diddy around.

Bunger Diddy

Bunger Diddy, aging yet spry. Seen here contemplating the next cicada.

It’s nice that Timmy the Fox doesn’t need much looking after… however a strange “chicken of the woods” mushroom recently appeared near the Timmy log. It grew and grew, the picture is about when it was 3/4 size. Timmy and his girlfriend wouldn’t come to the log because of it. They would wait for me to throw them food instead, so I killed that poor mushroom. Can’t have it infringing on the Timmys.

chicken of the woods mushroom

KFC for Gnomes.

Ignitor Style 5 String Fretless Bass Guitar

Ignitor Bass Guitar

Ignitor Style 5 String Fretless Bass

A long while ago on eBay I picked up a Carvin fretless five string neck-thru neck for a whopping 115 bucks (they are normally about $259). Next I managed to find a 5 string Schaller roller bridge for a whopping $45 on the ‘bay (normally $80 thanks Alex Pepiak of Lost Art Vintage). Finally I found a set of padauk covered Reed James five string jazz pickups on the ‘bay for $58 bucks …

Fifty … eight … bucks …

Ignitor Bass Guitar

Paint with Pearl gold ghost pearl over orange mixol.

I really, really felt like I stole those padauk covered pickups–especially since he sells wood covered pickups for $350 a set. They are stabilized and CNC machined I believe and best of all they sound mint as hell.

I guess I really *&%%&ing made out with this build, it’s my first fretless, it plays great, sounds great and you can swing it like an axe to kill and or grievously injure.

The wings on this bass are poplar that I sourced a while ago from Paul at Northstar Custom Tonewoods in NH, beautiful white clear poplar. The body shape mimics a B.C. Rich Ignitor–a somewhat rare guitar that is now only possible to acquire through their custom shop. I first saw this guitar on the sevenstring.org forums years ago, some people really liked it and some hated it. I kinda dig the shape, some say it looks like a dead sheep–but I see more of an arachnid, like a contorted assassin bug or something.

I finished this one with Minwax Polycrylic mixed with orange mixol, then I sprayed polycrylic laced with paintwithpearl.com ghost pearl over that for a gold metallic effect. It shines a brilliant gold in the sunlight but looks way more orange where it’s not reflecting. I went volume/volume for the controls and the little button between the knobs is a killswitch.

Ignitor 5 String Bass Guitar

Gleaming in the sun.

  Categories : Guitars

Zelda 25th Anniversary Telecaster Guitar

Zelda Guitar

Zelda 25th Anniversary Telecaster Guitar

Zelda guitar tru oil transtint

Zelda headstock – waterslide decal under tru oil.

When the Legend of Zelda’s 25th anniversary was announced I got the idea for a 25th anniversary telecaster guitar. I didn’t finish it until recently. People sometimes ask me how I can afford to make so many guitars, most standard electric guitar projects probably costs about 300-400 or more (unless you really use bottom of the barrel parts or you make your own hardware/pickups)  but I simply buy the parts slowly one at a time. One week a bridge, one month a pickup etc. Eventually I manage to complete one.

I didn’t build the body on this one, I bought it from Plaid Sabbath guitar works when he was selling them on the Guitar Reranch forums. This one was a heavy, dingy poplar telecaster body and so far it’s my finest sounding guitar. I made the curly maple neck with fiber optic fret markers. I didn’t do the inlay on the ebony board though, managed to find that on eBay a year or so ago. I thought the vine inlay fit somewhat with the Zelda motif and the color of it matches the triforce emblem to a T. The triforce was laser cut by Ponoko and I simply placed fluorescent yellow transparent acrylic under it (sanded slightly to seem opaque rather than transparent).

Zelda leds guitar

Zelda triforce and fiber optic fret markers.

A few leds sit under the triforce, these are fired by a small switch on the control plate. This switch turns on the green fiber optic markers too. Two AA batteries sit in a battery holder under the control panel, I used threaded inserts instead of screws on the control plate so it’s easily removed. A Sanwa pushbutton next to the triforce acts as a killswitch.

The curly maple neck was first dyed with a small amount of Colonial Maple Transtint dye in water. Next I lightly sanded it back with 220 grit leaving color only in the grain of the wood. Then I dyed over the whole thing once more with the Transtint for that nice tiger-stripe effect. Finally finished it with tru oil — my preferred neck finish if the neck will be bare wood and or dyed in the

Zelda guitar curly maple

Curly maple with transtint and tru oil.

red/orange/yellow range (tru oil tends to add an amber tint). Oh yeah, the finish is pure Target Coatings EM1000 sanding sealer mixed with PaintwithPearl gold pearl — it looked so nice I decided to not even clear coat and it’s held up great. Kind of a matte gold finish.

Last but not least: the pickup. Aaron Campbell at Rumpelstiltskin Pickups (how great is that name?) wound a screaming 13k Alnico V bridge pickup for me which I unofficially labeled the “Rumpelstiltskin Nightmare.” This is the best sounding guitar I currently own — plugged in or unplugged. The guitar has a great trebl-y snap to the low E and A strings, plus a “woody” sort of tone, really nice. The pickup is clear yet hot, great harmonics and sounds so big I forget that it’s a single coil. Maybe one day I’ll make a normal tele? Not today.

One of my favorite embellishments is the original Link image on the top of the headstock. Whenever I see that art I’m reminded of sixth grade when I took Thursday plus Friday off to beat NES Zelda in four days assisted only by Kool Aid and the fold-out map. It was a grand adventure.

Zelda Tele Nintendo


  Categories : Guitars

Raisinburst Jaguar Style Bass

Raisinburst Jaguar Bass

Raisinburst Jaguar Bass

Raisinburst? Or the “Raisin of Death…” I like the Raisin of Death better. I made the body from a Swamp Ash blank and chose a heavier swamp ash body to balance out the neck. The neck is a Moses graphite neck with some nice mother of pearl inlays. I got the neck on a sale for only 155.00 as these necks can cost over 350 dollars. Badass bass bridge pulled from a 70s P bass the auction said. Pickups are Blackwood CNC covered … what’s that dude’s name… oh yeah Reed James pickups. He had a sale a while back after a Namm show and I don’t think anyone really noticed. I snagged two pairs of Jazz pickups, these blackwood ones and a padauk set for 140, two sets! I’m pretty sure his wood covered pickups start over 2 or three hundred dollars. They are damn nice, nice sounding too which is what counts. I had no idea what this bass might sound like, never using a graphite neck before. Easily my best sounding bass though. Oh yeah, the nut was blessed by a Romanian witch for extra tone and sustain.

Back in the 90’s when I really played bass I owned a late 80’s Fender Japan J bass, a lame Kramer bass, a Guild Pilot 5 string and a 74′ Rickenbacker 4001. This one’s tone smokes all of them, but I still haven’t restored the 4001. I actually didn’t play bass for many years, or guitar. Geez, probably fourteen years of no playing. A few years ago, about four to be exact I started playing again and also started really playing guitar beyond cowboy chords. After a week of playing bass I was right back where I was with the exception of finger endurance and callouses which took about a month. Anyways I’m getting sidetracked… Moses graphite neck is sick, not sterile or weird at all, very woody and piano-like chortle. Lots of chorge in it. I originally finished it in a blue dyed burst but the straw colored swamp ash made it look green. I then just slathered a bunch of purple transtint dye over it and I liked how it came out… like a “raisinburst” or something. It’s a little more purple in person and blue-ish purple on the burst edge.

  Categories : Guitars

The Bee Bee Furter

Bee Bee DairyOr the epitome of “disgustingly delicious.”

Bee Bee Dairy in Mystic, CT during the 80’s and 90’s. There were a few in Southeastern, CT but the Mystic one was the kingpin. Bee Bee’s restaurant was a home away from home for myself and my parents. My folks would go there two to three times a day, sitting at the “horseshoe” counter with any number of locals shooting the shit and smoking cigarettes. You know, back when smoking cigs was really, really cool.  Bee Bee’s was known for its extremely yellow booths and greasy spoon food. It also had amazing gray faux wood paneling and a bathroom that everybody and their brother used.  Their ice cream wasn’t bad and they forged a real nice sundae with jet black fudge and real whipped cream topped by a leaky red maraschino. In fact looking back I think the sundae was a strong point on the menu, they produced a pretty good one.

During the eighties I loved that an arcade was right across the street from Bee Bee’s. Gauntlet, Joust, Punch-Out and Dragon’s Lair were a few of my favorites. I’d go down there and spend all my quarters (or most, since nearby Sunrise Farms housed all kinds of general store delights such as Smartfood, Jolly Ranchers, Hostess Cup Cakes and century-old Pigs Feet with a thick layer of dust on the lid). Once I ran out of cash, I simply crossed the street to Bee Bee’s and begged my parents for a few more dollars. It was the perfect set up. I lived less than a quarter mile away from downtown Mystic so it’s safe to say this happened really often as a kid.

One of the gnarliest things on the menu was the Bee Bee furter. I loved this thing, well sometimes. I think my love of their Patty Melt was greater. The Bee Bee furter was no slouch though.

Basically a foot long hot dog on a toasted New England style hot dog bun, topped with bacon and American cheese. Ketchup was a must. I know, I know, no self respecting dog enthusiast endorses ketchup, but I actually hate hot dogs. Well, except for Bee Bee furters, then I will make an exception.

Hot dogs are ludicrous things. There’s no telling whats in them, I mean truly you could ground up spider eyeballs, goat gonads maybe a sprinkle of slug feces… you could put any or all of this in a dog and nobody would really know.

New England bun panSO basically I just do up a foot long dog, at the same time I get a New England style hot dog bun… however these don’t exist in local supermarkets in the south. I have to make them instead with the New England style hot dog pan from King Arthur Flour. It’s expensive, it works, but it’s slightly flawed: the buns are a little bit too thin. I circumvent this by not following the ridges exactly when I cut them and thus making them slightly bigger. Only downside is it nets less of them in a batch. I use the recipe it comes with to a T but I add one tablespoon of canola oil. That little bit of oil makes them somewhat soft rather than crumbly. I butter one of these suckers on both sides and fry it in the pan til it’s toasty-roasty.

Next I take the hot dog, place it in the bun and then I put a slab of bacon on top. Tip: cut the bacon in fourths, that way it doesn’t fall the hell off in one bite. Finally I top with American cheese over the bacon to “hold it in place” like a yummy, ooey gooey glue … that’s right I said ooey gooey. I put them in the oven at 350 for a few minutes just to warm everything and slightly melt the cheese.

So wrong but it's soooo right.

The Bee Bee Furter in all its glory.

Ketchup is a must. It just works, trust me on this one.

There you have it, a Bee Bee furter at home. Disgustingly delicious. It lives, it lives on.

After all, what is a legacy, when there’s no one left to remember it?

  Categories : Food/Recipes

The Nuka Smoker – Weber Smokey Joe Mini

nuka cola smoker

The Nuka Smoker

The Nuka Smoker is a great little cooker for smaller cuts of meat and smoking cheese. It’s also a little known artifact from Fallout 3, I swear I saw it in a post-blast supermarket somewhere on the map. I happened upon this idea in the Smokey Joe Mini WSM Project forums. In fact I should go register to show my Nuka Smoker there soon. Sitting by the Nuka smoker with a fresh Nuka Cola is not a thing to miss, in June under the stars, not if you care for such things.

So far I’ve done a small turkey, a nuclear pork bomb, chicken wings and bone in chicken breasts on this thing and it works very similar to the 299 Weber smoker. On a much smaller scale mind you — filling the smaller charcoal ring to the brim, then pouring some hot coals in the middle (about 1/3 of the weber chimney) gets me about eight hours of cooking time. Maybe more if your coal grate is even larger, mine came out a little narrow. Also, the temperature fluctuates just a little more in the smaller version, for mine at least. I usually have to mess with the bottom dampers once or twice during a cook.  One of the biggest keys to this project in my opinion is the clay pot for a diffuser.  Your food is a short distance from the coals so you must diffuse that direct heat.

nuka smoker fallout

Ready to smoke a nuclear pork bomb — or bacon.

For “cold smoking” something like cheese I place about four charcoal nugs together in the bottom of the Nuka Smoker and just blast them with a blowtorch in the middle for a few seconds until they start to whiten on the inner edges. Next I put a piece of hardwood on top and it creates just enough heat to smoke without melting the cheese. Have to be careful on really hot days though, one to two hours usually does the trick.

All the information to build one starts here, here’s another good example I quickly found. I used the Vasconia pot. I was able to find two locally at Wally World. 24-29 bucks seems to be the regular price for these. It cut real easy with a jigsaw blade made specifically for metal. I used a little aluminum drawer pull for the top chimney and a long piece of stainless threaded rod with an acorn nut at the end for the bottom vent. I only did one rack on the top of mine, you can see where the nuts are on the sides of the graphics in the middle. High heat engine paint and custom vinyl stickers were used for the logos.

One last word of caution, if you’re going to paint it with high-temperature engine paints you may want to use this cooker as a smoker only. That’s what I’ve been doing and the high temp paint has only browned some on the bottom. I have another smokey joe griller for high temp grilling only. I love these little Weber grills, they’re only 29 bucks most places. I used the silver version, but the gold version works too, it just has different vents.

nuka bottle opener

A real Nuka bottle opener built in.

As someone who is accustomed to using gas grills, I really only use charcoal now. Not as simple, but better flavors.

Update: After a year of use: just the bottom where the charcoal burns has turned grey.

Update: After a year of use: just the bottom where the charcoal burns has turned grey.

  Categories : Arcade/Gaming, Food/Recipes

Nuclear Pulled Pork and the Legend of Harry Soo

I started smoking shit years ago using those cheesy little electric bullet smokers, even tried a cheap 89.00 chimney style smoker …

I did OK with these, but the units themselves absolutely sucked balls. I could only use the electric one on a hot day since it didn’t go above 210 degrees. The chimney style smoker required tons of charcoal and constant tweaking since it wouldn’t hold a consistent temp.

Enter the Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker:



I wish I started using one of these years ago. At 299.00 it’s worth every penny and it’s arguably the best entry level smoker out there. The multitude of positive reviews on Amazon are legit and one reviewer stands out from the rest: The Great Harry Soo.

I consider myself to be a disciple of the Soo. I’ve learned much from him without taking a single one of his cooking classes. His website SlapYoDaddyBBQ has a lot of good cooking advice and recipes. Harry Soo is a big fan of the Weber Smokey Mountain Cooker and has won over 27 Grand Championships. His team also won the first season of TLC’s BBQ Pitmasters show. What’s cool is that Soo and his team actually use the 299-399 Weber smokers in their contests.

Pork Butt Rub ...Gonna do a pork butt here, starting by rubbing one out, I mean rubbing it out. Then I’ll inject it with apple juice, brown sugar, paprika, and garlic powder. Next I’ll rub the outside with the aforementioned spices plus pepper and a little chili powder.

Here is an example of how the unit works. First, you fill the bottom up with charcoal, I’m not going too crazy here since it’s a smaller pork butt, so I’ll just fill it about 2/3 of the way. I’m probably looking at 7-9 hours at 225-240 degrees, filling it to the rim with charcoal would tack many more hours on. I throw a few hunks of hickory on the edges. Next, I get about a half a chimney of coals going. The Weber Chimney is like 14 bucks, made from mostly aluminum and it’s held up for well over a year now. I started out using the newspaper and olive oil trick to get it going. Screw that, making your own fire-starters by simply dipping cotton balls in paraffin wax is better in my opinion, buying the cheap ones Weber makes is best–they burn a little better and longer.

The coals get white-hot and I chuck them on top of the charcoal in the bottom of the unit. I made a small well in the middle for them, these will burn outward and slowly ignite the hickory and charcoal over many hours. The middle piece of the smoker goes on top followed by the lid. That middle piece is perfect to use as a stand for the chimney starter. Just like Harry Soo, I don’t fill the water bowl inside with water, I just cover it with aluminum foil.

Now that it’s fired up the chimney hole on the lid stays wide open as well as the three dampers on the bottom. Once the temperature reaches 200 degrees I close the bottom dampers leaving them only a little more than 1/8 open. If it were a windy day, I may completely close the damper facing the wind.

That’s it. Now I wait about six hours until the internal temperature is 160 or so. I did not have to mess with the smoker once during this time. One thing to be cognizant of while its smoking is leaving the lid open–don’t do it for more than a few seconds. The coals will burn much hotter–possibly igniting the wood chunks–and then you may have to mess with the chimney/dampers until it chills out. The top chimney always stays wide open, that is unless you have a huge temperature spike–usually from the lid being opened for a while. However, closing down the bottom dampers in addition to the top chimney will bring the temp down fast.

Once the nuclear pork butt reached 160 I decided to foil it. I did not foil the past two pork butts and they were absolutely excellent. They were also bigger and had more fat on them. This butt seems leaner and looked a bit dry on the outside  at 160 degrees so I decided to “steam” it within its own juices in addition to some apple juice and brown sugar. Buy the larger style Reynolds aluminum foil and get a tight seal on it before putting it back on the smoker. Choosing to foil or not or to spritzer with water or apple juice or not comes down to “feel” as the great Harry Soo says. If it looks more dry, give it a spritz. If it doesn’t just leave it alone. Harry Soo also says do not spray anything at all on the meat until it forms a crust on the outside that you can’t quite scrape away with a fingernail. That’s usually at the 160 degree mark I’ve found but not always. You want to form that crust before you do any foiling or spritzing with shit.

Christ, I was thinking of putting up a quick post about a friggen pork butt and it’s turned into an essay.

You might notice these cool Thermapen thermometer probes that cooks use, well they also cost 89 bucks or more. There’s a cheaper version I just got called the ThermoPop and it works great. Five seconds and you get a correct meat temp. Comes in handy for brewing beer too.

Falling off the Bone

Falling off the Bone

Once foiled, I let the meat go two hours more and the temperature was now 195. Perfect? Well not so fast. As a disciple of the great Harry Soo I learned to try and cook by feel and not temperature. When inserting the probe I noticed a little bit of resistance, there should be none when its done. I let it go another hour and it the temperature only raised two points. No resistance this time, it was done. Absolutely ready to fall off the bone. Tender, juicy, phantasmagorical, effervescent strips of pork tender juice pork, pork.

Tearing into this butt is easy.

Tearing into this butt is easy.

I couldn’t believe the amount of meat on this rather medium sized pork bomb. The meat piled up so high I needed another plate to continue harvesting with two forks. I put its fatty/applejuice-y drippings into a pan with about a cup of water, two tablespoons of apple cider (I think I added one more) a little brown sugar, paprika, salt, garlic powder and pepper. A couple squirts of ketchup too for a nice dipping sauce.

Like Butter...

Like Butter…

Now I have more &^*&ing pork than I know what to do with.

Let’s see, pulled pork sandwiches, pulled pork tacos, pulled pork calzones, pulled pork burritos, pulled pork chimichangas, PORK…PORK-PORK–PORK PARK?? PARKK PORKKKK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Enough pork to feed a village. Or to last many days. Too much pork, really.

All Mounded Up

All Mounded Up

My advice to anyone that wants a solid entry level smoker, one that should last twenty years or more is to go with the 299.00 Weber and check out Soo’s informative review. It will probably be forever locked at the top left of all the reviews on the Amazon product page. In the off chance you found it sucks you could always sell it locally for near its full value or make a pretty decent black R2D2.

Also, if you want to do some pretty good smoking in a similar style and can’t swing 299, I have one more smaller, cheaper option I want to talk about coming in my next food category post.

  Categories : Food/Recipes

La Fontanero Super – Mario 25th Anniversary La Cabronita Guitar

A few years ago Nintendo celebrated the 25th anniversary of Super Mario Bros. with the release of a red Wii, red DSi XL and Mario All Stars for the Wii. Soon after I imagined a Fender La Cabronita style guitar dyed completely red in honor of the plumber’s silver anniversary. I like the simplicity of the La Cabronita design and I think it makes a fine high-gain single humbucker monstrosity.

Many months later… Behold, The La Fontanero Super!

Mario Guitar

La Fontanero Super

The guitar boasts an Allparts Tele style neck, Wilkinson Vintage Tuners, some cheap (but very decent) top-loading bridge and one of the lightest Swamp Ash guitar bodies I’ve ever come across.  After I cut the shape I used a cheapy Harbor Freight oscillating spindle sander to hone down the coarse edges of the body. The resulting body was light as a feather and the finished guitar weighs 6.2 pounds.

 After routing the pickup cavities I sanded it to 320 grit and then “whiskered” the wood several times with a damp rag. Each time I did this it raised the wood grain a bit and I lightly sanded back the “burs” or fuzzy wood fibers. I then used a combination of powdered transfast dyes (Cardinal Red, Scarlet Red) mixed in distilled water to achieve a sort of “blood red.” Once the body and neck were dyed accordingly I finished it with Tru Oil, applying this several times using small pieces of old t-shirt, carefully spreading it in one thin layer at a time. I must have applied the Tru Oil 20 times or more on the body, waiting about three hours between coats. Normally I do 4-5 coats on a neck for example, but this wood was so dry and light it drank up a ton of it.

I tried mixing 40% mineral spirits (dyed with transfast) to 60% Tru Oil. This works with oil based dyes but I tried water based and it helped me dye the guitar a very evenly red color. If I used this mixture alone it would not have looked super red, the dye darkened in the Tru Oil quite a bit, but it worked very well to deepen the overall red color and to cover some of the hard to reach pores in the grain that didn’t take the water based dye too easily. I did this on the body only, you can see it is a darker red than the neck, but not by a whole lot.  I applied three coats of normal Tru Oil to one coat of the dyed oil, sanding back lightly every three coats or so.  Hitting the oil with 600 grit sandpaper between every third coat or so worked nicely.

I routed the pickguard from clear acrylic and I placed a metallic print of the 25th Mario Anniversary logo underneath it. The lone volume knob has a push/pull pot rigged with an Arlo West/Woodman cocked wah mod (thanks Deaf Eddie for the wiring help.)

I must say the red neck with black tuners and dots looks quite evil. It reminds me of that horny guy from the movie Legend — no, not Tom Cruise.



  Categories : Guitars
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